I have been promising this for awhile and now that I’m off to Pattaya for an extended tour its time to write it to buy me time so I don’t have to worry about trying to keep pace with the site while I’m there. I’m sure this ins’t going to be everyones cup of tea but if you travel enough for either the hunt of cheap pussy or for just the pleasure of it, people do expect you to come back with pictures. So if you are going to take them at least put an effort into the images so you have something to worth showing be it your nova, the cum you blew on a hookers body or some nice building and food shots, I’m going to help you get the most out of whatever camera you got. So welcome to Monger Travels Guide to Photography.
I’m going to start with the basics and then I’ll work my way up to cameras, lenses, and post processing. For now I’m going to go over a few basic concepts and terms in photography so you can understand the terms used when shopping for a camera and understanding exactly what they mean when you use the camera.
The most basic thing about photography is that its just simply the capture of light. There isn’t any thing more to it. I don’t care if you are shooting on glass plates, film, cheap ass camera sensor, or the most expensive camera in the world with a sensor that can jerk you off while giving you a reach around, its capturing light and nothing more. Once you get that concept out of the way, its time to understand what is going on with the camera so you can maximize its use.
Aperture – You often hear this word used when you are talking about lenses. What does it mean, basically the depth of field. It does more than that but for our purposes its all about giving the image depth or the lack of. The smaller the aperture number is the more light is let in while the larger the number is means less light is let in. The average human who wants a decent photo isn’t going to invest in monumentally expensive lenses and for your average point-and-shoot (compact) this number isn’t going to drop much below 1.8. Yes, you can buy lenses that are much faster but the cost is about the same as a baby on the black market. The average compact camera and camera phone hovers around a 3.0 aperture which in photography circles is slow but extremely usable provided you have the light to compensate for how slow the lens is going to take the picture. When you are shooting at 3.0 you are “wide open” which means the lens is at it widest and all available light is being let in. When you “stop down” you are closing the aperture on the lens and it means less light is being let in but you are getting a greater depth of field. So as an example you are taking a picture of a statue on a mountain and you want to get the mountains in the background of the statue as well, then you would stop down your aperture to allow more of the back ground into the shot. This means something in the order of 5.6 or more. For lots of background you want f/7.1 to f/11. For building shots the more stopped down you get the better. If you wanted to just solely have the image fixed on the aperture you would open it up to its fastest meaning 3.0 or lower. So just remember stopping down really means the bigger number while wide open means the smaller number. The smaller the number less background.
For the record, a lot of compact cameras and camera phones don’t allow you to adjust aperture because their lenses aren’t meant for it. You are often held to whatever the sensor was programmed for. It’s just nice to know when you push the shutter button and see that f/3.0 or whatever on your screen you know what it means.
ISO – This one gets complex here because its controlled by the sensor and is using a film concept. Remember back to ye olde tymes you had film speed which was basically how sensitive the film was to light. The lower the number the less sensitive to light it was while the higher the number it was more sensitive to light. To put it into plain English, the higher your ISO number is the more light the camera will try and suck into its sensor. So if you are shooting in a fairly dark area with lots of shadows or dim lighting and don’t want to use flash you are going to need to increase your ISO. The more light you have available to you the lower your ISO will be. If I haven’t lost you yet then I’m going to be contradictory to you. I am writing this for the every man photographer so if you have a some uber camera beyond a compact or camera phone ignore this. For the every man, listen to me. Set your camera on auto ISO and for the most part forget it. The sensor has been programmed to get the best out of itself based on the focal length, aperture, and shutter speed. There are times you are going to need to switch it to something higher, but for the most part forget it.
So back to what ISO and what it means. Remember how I said photography is nothing but the capture of light. Here is the light portion of it. ISO is just that. If you are shooting with lots of light you are going to use a very low ISO number with a lot of compacts shooting at ISO 80 which provides a very good image that can beat a pro camera at times. The more you increase the ISO the more you are subjecting yourself to how the sensor is reading the light. It normally doesn’t become an issue until you hit ISO 800 or higher. What happens is you start introducing “noise” into the image. I think we all have seen the girls photos from their phone where they are half naked and the image is grainy as hell. That grainy shit is noise. The lower the light the higher the ISO the more noise introduced to compensate for the lack of light. So keep that in mind when you are shooting your jizz shots in the half lit room. Unless you are going to use flash, your ISO is going to be cranked up and when you do you are going to introduce noise into the image and therefor lose image quality. Remember, photography is the capture of light and ISO is its most basic representation.
Shutter Speed – Keeping it simple, how long the camera opens the shutter to take the image. It’s based on a second. So if you see a shutter speed at 1/64 it means that the shutter was open for 1/64th of a second. If you see a shutter speed at 1/8000 it means it was open for 1/8000th of a second. The more light you have the less time your shutter will stay open. The thing is, shutter speed also controls light. ISO is the capture of the light while shutter speed controls how much light the ISO receives so when you are trying to get an image in a dimly lit room your shutter speed and ISO along with aperture is going to come into play. Remember how I said your ISO affects the quality of the image and the higher it gets the noisier it gets? Well shutter speed comes into play as well. The lower the light the longer the shutter stays open. This is where you get camera blur from as well because while the shutter was open you moved and the camera has shifted focus. So you really want to keep your shutter speed as fast as you humanly can. I can get away with 1/32 of a second hand held in low light without image stabilization (we’ll get to that). Thats because I know how to hold a camera (drunk is another story) but I have scored shots at 1/10 but its rare without image stabilization but the average human is going to want to keep the shutter speed around 1/64 for a shot not to be blurred by movement while the shutter is open. On the flip side if you are shooting in bright light you are going to want a fast shutter speed so that you aren’t over exposing your image. The longer the shutter is open the more light is let in and regardless of your ISO setting too much light is a bad thing. So the faster your shutter can fire the better. The pro cameras can fire at 1/8000 of a second. Most go to around 1/3000 or 1/4000. If you are in full blown daylight with your aperture wide open you are going to easily hit those numbers and you will still over expose your images. On a compact camera or phone its going to handle shutter speed
Focal Length – This one is easy. It’s really how long the lens is. So if you have a 50mm lens that is the focal length and that is what the camera is going to see the world as. There is a lot of debate on a perfect focal length and there isn’t a right or wrong answer here. It’s a matter of preference. The human eye sees somewhere between 35-50mm with 40mm being the average. Some people like wider images meaning anything less than 35mm others prefer longer images meaning 50mm or more. There are some basic rules of thumb for focal length that helps you out when you are taking a shot. For you lovers of landscapes and buildings, the wider the focal length the better. It helps give a sense of depth to the image. For shots of your hooker girlfriend (puta novia for your Latin American mongers) you generally want to use a longer focal length for a more flattering image. It helps make the portrait softer and doesn’t stretch their image out of proportion. The other thing you need to keep in mind is that the longer your focal length the less the aperture is going to open up. Unless you are willing to sell a body organ most long zooms in the affordable range are going to be maybe f/4 at their fastest.
I’ll gloss over sensor size and focal length for now because its confusing. Just keep in mind that whatever you see in focal length is considered a 35mm equivalent. In ye olde tymes everyone figured 35mm film was the standard as it was what the human eye could see as I mentioned before. So when you see focal lengths being discussed on compacts and phones you will see a much smaller number listed and then its 35mm film equivalent. The 35mm equivalent is what you really are shooting at. I’ll explain the sensor mumbo jumbo later.
Metering – This one is a bit confusing and tricky even for advanced photographers. There is usually three types of metering in every camera. You have evaluative, spot metering, and center weighted average. The terms might be slightly different across camera brands but the concept is the same.
Evaluative Metering is where the camera sensor looks at the light coming in and then gauges how much there is and then exposes the image based on ISO, Aperture, and shutter speed. This is basically the automatic of metering and what most cameras are set at by default. It works in well lit rooms where there is lots of light.
Spot Metering is where the camera looks at your focal point and judges the light around that area only. You do this to highlight exactly that area and those things around it. The further you get from the center of your focus area the less light there will be. So for example if you wanted to highlight that cum shot on her nipples you would use spot metering to draw the eye to that area only.
Center Weighted Average is just that. It looks at the center of the focus area and then averages it out with the rest of the image to try and create a balanced picture based on the rest of the settings. This is the catchall of metering you want to make sure what you shot is what draws the eye to the image but also make sure the rest of the image is exposed correctly as well.
White Balance – This is exactly what it means. Cameras are designed to shoot at an average white balance of light which it 5000 Kelvin. Meaningless to most of us but important for images at times. There are lots of settings in White Balance. Most of the times I’m lazy and set it to auto and forget it and color correct in post processing. For the average joe who doesn’t want to spend time in front of a computer fixing images you can mitigate some funky colors from you images by taking a few minutes to set your white balance. The main ones you want to look at are sunlight which you really should use for outdoor shooting even on a cloudy day unless we are talking dark and stormy. Light is light and sunlight doesn’t shift temperature that much. You will get more natural colors that your eye sees and not what the camera interprets as correct. Inside you mostly want to use Fluorescent because most places anymore are lit by fluorescent lights. It tends to run “cooler” and therefor throws more blue into the image. You don’t what your hooker looking like a Smurf. If you are dealing with older lightbulbs and shit like that, switch it to Tungsten. Tungsten tends to run “warm” which means a yellowish cast to your images. I have seen some images that look like urine yellow. If you set your white balance correctly you can avoid these casts to your image and get a properly exposed one.
I hope this helps you get started in understanding your camera/phone for photography. I know its pretty geeky but if you take the time to take the picture why not take the time to make sure it comes out properly. It doesn’t matter if its your hooker girlfriend, the eco tour you are on, the food you ate, the building you thought was cool, or the jizz you just shot on some random hookers tits. You took the time to take the picture so make it worth while. While it seems complex, once you have done it a few times it will be second nature to you.
I’ll continue this with camera shooting modes, camera types, camera systems, post processing tips, and finally the Monger Travels Photographic Arsenal (Trademark Pending). I’m not saying you are going to be the Greg Heisler of monger photography but you can at least produce images that are consistent in quality and not on the random whim of a camera in full whack auto mode.